Hiking Kilimanjaro Day 6

Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened. ~Dr. Seuss

Waking up at 6:30 was rough. I was groggy, exhausted, physically worn out, and the absolute last thing I wanted to do was get up and hike some more.

Despite not being hungry at all, I had a couple bites of eggs and toast to satisfy my appetite for the next few hours. While I was really apprehensive about the food going into the trip, I’m really going to miss the food we ate on Kilimanjaro because it was so good.

I’m even going to miss the trips Rakhi and I took to the wooded areas to go to the bathroom. Rakhi called some of them a “loo with a view” which I thought was hilarious.

We began the final leg of our hike at 7:20 AM. Aaron and Arnold hiked ahead to arrive at the gate first and organize our travel arrangements back to Arusha and the airport. Rakhi, Daniel, and I hiked at a slower pace because we were in physical pain from the downhill hiking.

As we hiked along through the rainforest it seemed as though we had come full circle back to the first day of our hike. We had beautiful scenery the whole way down but also had to deal with a muddy trail.

By the time we made it to the gate it was 11:20 AM. There aren’t enough words to begin to describe how happy and relieved I was when we got there. My motivation for getting down the mountain was receiving my summit certificate and a long, hot shower.

When Arnold gave me the certificate saying I had reached Uhuru Peak, I was elated. It’s definitely going to be framed as soon as possible so I can hang it somewhere I will see it every day. 

While I was super happy about receiving my certificate, sadness crept in when I had to say goodbye to three new friends: Rakhi, Arnold, and Aaron. Saying I’m going to miss Rakhi is a huge understatement. What a blessing it was to have her added to our group at the last minute. The companionship of having another girl on the hike was such a bonding experience. As for Arnold, I don’t know if we’ll ever meet again. I told him if I come to Tanzania in the future I am going to visit him.

When they left to head back to Arusha, I was alone in a day room at a hotel waiting for my 9 PM flight. It was the first time in almost a month being by myself. What a strange feeling. It was too quiet for my liking. I used the time to decompress, repack all of my belongings, and rest before my long plane ride.

Hiking through the rain forest with my attractive gaiters

Rain forest scenery

Our group with all of the crew at the gate!

Saying goodbye to Rakhi

Arnold giving me my certificate-I'm ecstatic in this picture but looking a little rough

My certificate!!!

Hiking Kilimanjaro Day 5: Summit Day! (part 3)

There, ahead, all he could see, as wide as all the world, great, high, and unbelievably white in the sun, was the square top of Kilimanjaro. And then he knew that there was where he was going ~Ernest Hemingway, The Snows Of Kilimanjaro

Pure joy. Happiness. Ecstasy. Pride. Bliss. Satisfaction. Elation. These are just a few words to try and describe reaching the summit. To a certain extent, I don’t know if it can be fully described. Maybe it’s best that way. There’s just an unspoken, indescribable magic about reaching the summit that can only be fully understood through experiencing it for yourself.

Immediately upon arriving I gave Rakhi and Aaron big hugs of congratulations and gave Arnold and Daniel hugs of gratitude. Shortly after that a photo shoot began so we could capture in picture our achievement. 

The best moment was taking a picture with the sign at the summit that says “Uhuru Peak, Tanzania, 5895 M. Africa’s Highest Point, World’s Highest Free-standing Mountain.” Every step that brought me to the summit, that sign was in the back of my mind. Every time the hike was difficult or I didn’t know if I would make it, I would think of that sign. It was my motivation and a right of passage for all those who trek Kilimanjaro.

I am so proud of myself for taking on this challenge and succeeding. I know that this experience is something I will forever be proud to tell people I accomplished. Standing on top of Kilimanjaro has made me feel so alive and purposeful. I feel ready and am excited to check more things off my “bucket list.”

Our time at the summit was short lived. We were only allowed to stay twenty minutes due to the altitude. After drinking my celebratory Coca-Cola I left the summit feeling content with life.

I thought that going down would be easy compared to hiking up Kili. I was proven wrong big time. As we were hiking down I was overwhelmed with exhaustion. Honestly, I could have rolled down the hill and been perfectly fine with it. Rakhi actually did fall a few times coming down the mountain. And Aaron had to be held up by Arnold and Daniel coming down the mountain because he was still sick from the altitude. 

It took us about three and a half hours to hike down from the summit back to Millennium Camp. As soon as we arrived at 1:30 PM, we were given an hour and a half to rest and nap if we wanted to. 

I used the first thirty minutes to decompress. I felt like I had just been through such an ordeal. My face felt burnt and chapped from the sun and high winds. My eyes would not stop watering because they were so irritated from the wind and all the dirt that had blown into them. My body and muscles ache to the extreme. My ankles and knees feel like someone has been kicking them continuously. I have never felt joint pain this bad in my whole life. 

More than all of the physical pain combined, I was mentally and emotionally drained. The mix of emotions and intensity of emotions I felt was ridiculous. I was beyond ecstatic to have made it to the summit, proud of myself, weary from the hike, stressed from the physical pain, and a little bit sad it was over.

Sleeping for an hour was the best thing I could have done for myself. I woke up still in pain and feeling emotional, but it was much less than before I had gone to sleep. At 4 PM we ate a quick lunch of soup and crackers. 

Quickly we packed up our camp in order to hike to the final camp in daylight. The porters aren’t supposed to be in transit at night because they don’t have headlamps which makes the hike very dangerous. Arnold had told us earlier that around ten people die on Kilimanjaro every year and mostly they are porters. 

As soon as the camp was packed up we left Millennium Camp. It took us longer than it should have to get there because the sun had set and we were forced to hike in the dark. Hiking this leg in the dark was pretty difficult because there were a lot of large, slick rocks than we had to climb down off of.

Fortunately after about three and a half hours of hiking, we made it to the next camp. We immediately sat down and had a dinner of rice, white beans, vegetables, and coconut sauce. Food has never tasted so good. 

After eating we had a celebratory champagne toast with our whole group including Arnold, Daniel, and the porters. It definitely made me sad to think that our adventure together had almost come to an end. Come tomorrow I’d be on my way home to the States. But before that I still had to finish getting down the mountain.

Glaciers

Hiking over the ice

Above the clouds, in front of the glaciers

Uhuru Peak, Tanzania sign!

Rakhi, Me, & Aaron in fron of the summit sign

Me in front of the summit sign

Representing USC-GO GAMECOCKS!!

Me doing the spur-GO GAMECOCKS- & Daniel doing the Kilimanjaro sign

Hiking Kilimanjaro Day 2

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. ~Mark Twain

 

Wake up call this morning came pretty early. Around six o’clock the porters from the various camps began working to prepare breakfast and take down the camps. The sound of their voices woke me and after an hour of tossing and turning I got up.

Last night I slept pretty soundly considering I took my malaria medication and it usually makes me nauseous. This is my fourth week taking the Mefloquin so maybe my body has adjusted to it. 

The other thing that kept me from deep sleep was sleeping on an incline. I guess that’s the disadvantage to camping on a mountainside though.

Breakfast never tasted so good because I was starving from so much physical activity the day before. We ate eggs, toast, fruit jam, sausage, porridge, and bananas for breakfast. Quickly after eating we packed up our bags and we on the more by nine o’clock.

Today’s hike was 2,625 feet and it was all uphill on large rocks. It was definitely different than hiking through the rainforest. About 650 feet into the hike at an elevation of 10,500 feet we were above cloud level. Incredible does not even begin to describe the view of the mountain and sky. From that elevation we could see Mount Meru, the second tallest mountain in Tanzania. 

Along the hike we stopped at various points where the view was particularly beautiful to take in the scenery. The awesome scenery is definitely a testament to why the Machame route is one of the best, even if it the “Whiskey Route.” 

We arrived at Shira Cave at 2 PM after our porters. The porters are pretty amazing considering they leave camp after us in the morning so they can pack camp up and they arrive at the next camp before us to have it set up. Some of the porters literally run up the mountain which is unreal to me because I go at such a slow pace.

Arnold our guide has taught our group the Tanzanian phrase “pole pole” which means “slowly slowly.” He says because of the altitude and the rigorous activity the key to getting to the summit without getting ill is reminding ourselves to go “pole pole.”

For lunch at camp we ate grilled tomato and cheese sandwiches, leeks soup, chicken and oranges. Again I ate as much as possible because the amount of physical activity is making me super hungry. Dinner consisted of pancakes, cucumber soup, peanuts, rice, and beef with coconut sauce. I steered clear of the cauliflower and green beans because even though I was hungry, I draw the line at eating things that I am not at all a fan of. 

With temperatures in the mid 40’s, the strong winds make it feel like it’s in the 30’s out. Now that we’re above cloud level the stars are incredible. Arnold told us that on summit night the stars will seem so close we can reach out and grab them. I’m pretty excited to experience the stars that way because at home there is so much ambient light I don’t get to see them like that often.

As I lay there of course I couldn’t help but think of how I missed my family. As of tomorrow I won’t have seen them for three weeks. I know my family, especially my mom, is worrying about me this week as I can’t be in touch with them to tell them I’m doing well.

Although I’m missing my family, friends, and my yellow lab Bella a lot, I know this is a once in a lifetime opportunity. If you were me wouldn’t you try to enjoy and experience fully each moment? I'm so excited to be checking this off my bucket list soon!

On the trail

On the trail looking down the hill

Mount Meru in the distance

Aaron on the trail

Arnold and me

Aaron, me, & Rakhi pausing to take pictures on the hike

Giving Aaron a sympathy hug for being a Clemson fan. GO GAMECOCKS!

Me with the summit in the distance

Above the clouds

Rakhi at the nicest bathroom on all of Kilimanjaro

Our camp for night 2

Just after sunset

More Route Options!

There are many paths to the top of the mountain, but the view is always the same. ~Chinese Proverbs quotes

Still trying to select a route up Kilimanjaro? Here are three more to consider:

If you're interested in paving your own way, the Northern Circuit, newest route to the summit, is the route for you. This route, which takes about nine days to complete, has very low traffic because it is so new. Hikers can have a tranquil and enjoyable experience for as they cross almost the whole mountain including the north side. It is the longest route of the six, running 55-57 miles in total. Northern Circuit’s accommodations are tent camping so get ready to rough it a bit if you plan to choose this route.

Do you have little backpacking experience but want to rough it a bit? If so, the Rongai Route, which takes six days to complete, is a great fit for you. This route is among the less frequented routes, making it very tranquil. It runs 40-43 miles in total, making it average in terms of route length. For good acclimatization, this route, much like the Machame route, provides adequate variation in altitude and a more gradual ascent. The lodging for Rongai is tent camping, so get ready to rough it a bit if you choose this route.

If you're an athlete or you have plenty of backpacking experience and are looking for a challenge, Umbwe Route is just what you're looking for. This is the shortest and steepest route out of them all, running 23-25 miles in total and taking only five or six days to complete. This route requires the most physical endurance and is more suited for those in peak physical shape. This route is not ideal for acclimatization due to the quick ascent; therefore it is not be the best choice for those with lower lung capacity or those prone to altitude sickness. The accommodation for this route is tent camping as well, so it will provide you with a true roughing it experience.

Want to know which route I chose? Read tomorrows post to find out!

Which Route is the Best Fit for You?

“Mountains cannot be surmounted except by winding paths.” ~Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

The next thing to tackle after finding a tour operator is choosing which route or path you want to hike to the summit of Kilimanjaro. There are six different routes which you can choose from. This provides you with many options in order to suit your needs and comfort level as a hiker. While each path has unique aspects that you will haphazardly learn about along your hike, here is a brief summary of the first three routes to give you an idea of which might be for you:

Want to rough it on you way up Kilimanjaro? If so then the Lemosho Route, which takes seven to eight days to complete, may be for you. For a tranquil feel, Leshomo is great because it is more remote and less frequented at the beginning of the route before it merges with the Machame route on day four. On this route you will trek through luscious forests and have some amazing scenic views to enjoy along the way. This route is roughly 34-36 miles in total and allows for adequate acclimatization. This route is tent camping so get ready to rough it if this is your pick! 

Another more adventurous option is the "Whiskey Route," formally known as the Machame Route: This route, which takes 6 to 7 days to complete, is also very scenic and passes through beautiful forests. This is the second most popular route and is ideal for hikers looking to enjoy the view along the way. This route is a more physically rigorous hike than some of the other routes, therefore be sure to starting physically preparing months in advance. Because the only sleeping accommodation on this route is tent camping, this might not be the best option for those uninterested in roughing it a bit! This hike is 31-34 miles in total and provides adequate variation in altitude for good acclimatization. 

Does tent camping and roughing it sound a little extreme to you? If yes then the Marangu Route, which is nicknamed the “Coca Cola Route,” would be best for you. It is said to be the easiest route in terms of hiking experience necessary, and therefore it is the most popular route. If you are interested in having a more isolated and tranquil experience, this crowded route might not be for you. The accommodations for this route are huts with sleeping bunks on which to put a sleeping bag, therefore it would be a great option for the ladies who can't go without their beauty sleep. This route, which takes five to six days to complete, provides adequate variation in altitude for good acclimatization. This route is 40-42 miles in total making it average in length compared to all the other routes. 

Credit: UltimateKilimanjaro.com, Google

Recommended Tour Operators

“All of us, at certain moments of our lives, need to take advice and to receive help from other people.” ~ Alexis Carrel

After researching various expedition and adventure companies online, I became incredibly overwhelmed because there were so many out there to pick from. I then thought to consult with my professor who is very familiar with various travel agencies and tour operators in Tanzania because of his extensive travel experience. He recommended to me Safari Makers, Ltd. which is the company that I did end up booking my hike through. They are a recommended tour operator in Tanzania in Bradt Travel Guides, Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Reise Know-How and other guide books. Safari Makers, Ltd. Safari Makers, Ltd. is a full service company that organizes everything from the moment you step off the plane to the time you set foot back on the airplane. 

From the time my study abroad professor and group departed Tanzania, I was in the care of Safari Makers, Ltd. They arranged a hotel room for the night prior to beginning my hike as well as a day room at a hotel next to the airport so that I could shower and repack before leaving Tanzania. The company land cruisers picked us up the morning of the hike and drove us from Arusha to the park gate at the base of Kilimanjaro. They also had all of the camping equipment available to rent so that you don’t have to bring a ton of heavy, bulky equipment with you on your flight. The owner also arranged the most important thing: our guide for the trip, Arnold, as well as the assistant guide, the cooks, the porters. These people are key to making sure you summit the mountain safely and you have an enjoyable time while doing so. 

A second expedition company I would recommend is Kiliman Treks + Bikes. Arnold Mato, the owner, has stood atop the summit of Kilimanjaro more than 30 times. I was glad to have him next to me and coaching me as I made my summit attempt. Mato is a native of Moshi, Tanzania and has lived at the base of Kilimanjaro for almost his whole life. His father was a Kilimanjaro guide and he is too. I guess you could say it runs in the family! He has been trained in all of the hiking routes and would be a suitable guide for any route you choose. Arnold knows Kilimanjaro like the back of his hand (literally, he did two segments of our hike in the dark, one of which with no headlamp; I’ll get to that story later!).  Not only is Arnold incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, he became a great friend which made the experience that much more valuable and memorable.

 

Because I’ve had personal experiences with both of these companies, I would highly recommend them to anyone I know interested in climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Definitely ask around to family, friends, professors, coworkers and neighbors to see if anyone you know (or anyone they know) has hiked Mount Kilimanjaro. Find out which tour operator or travel company they used and what they liked and disliked about it. It’s incredibly reassuring to find a company through a personal recommendation instead of haphazardly guessing a good one on the internet!

Lists & Lists & Lists...Oh My!

"To be prepared is half the victory." ~Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra

So now that I was approved parentally, I began officially planning my Kilimanjaro adventure of 2010. Planning is everything and can definitely make or break this experience! Do yourself a big favor and start planning early. I committed to hiking Mount Kilimanjaro 4 months before departing for Tanzania. Now came the lists. Oh so many lists. Packing lists, equipment lists, pricing lists. Lists of routes, of weather, of conditions.  You might consider it over-planning, but I consider it being prepared. This would have gotten incredibly confusing if I hadn’t kept myself super organized. One of the best tips I could offer is find yourself a really cute travel notebook. I kept my planning notes, my numerous lists, and my travel journal in it! 

The first round of lists was about the company I would be traveling with. Some people who have hiked Mount Kilimanjaro would recommend waiting until you arrive in Arusha or Moshi to find an expedition company. The only situation in which I would suggest not finding a travel company until you get there is if you’re very experienced with hiking expeditions and you know with a high degree of accuracy what to expect. 

I, however, am way too much of a planner to wait until the last minute to find a company. I also knew this kind of spontaneity, while acceptable and encouraged for other more common types of travel, would not be the best idea in terms of hiking Mount Kilimanjaro. Because I was inexperienced with backpacking and hiking week long expeditions, I felt the strong need to over-plan. Had I not been very detailed in the planning and preparation process I can see myself helplessly stranded on the side of a mountain in the pouring rain wishing I had my Burt’s Bees lip balm and broken in hiking boots instead of tennis shoes. Well, maybe that’s a bit dramatic but when I envision myself helpless on Kilimanjaro that’s what I see.

My Tanzania Travel Journal!

 

Parental Permission...the Biggest Hurdle

The trouble with having a stubbornness contest with your kids is that they have your stubbornness gene.  ~Robert Brault

How would your parents feel about you hiking Mount Kilimanjaro? My mom and dad were reluctant, to say the least. Winning over my mom and dad was one of the first things on my Kilimanjaro To-Do. Gaining my dad's blessing, specifically, would be the toughest. The thing about my parents is that their travel experience is limited mainly to the United States. While my dad has been practically everywhere in the States, his first trip to Europe was to visit me in Barcelona when I studied abroad there in the summer of 2009. My mom had at least spent some time in Sweden while getting her master’s degree so she was more understanding of my overwhelming desire to go all over the world. Seeing as my dad had a hard enough time accepting the fact that out of all the places I could choose to study abroad I decided to go to Africa, one of the seemingly most dangerous continents, I knew convincing him to agree to Kilimanjaro was going to be a challenge.

Fortunately, while I am a nice and mostly agreeable girl, when it comes to traveling I can be pretty stubborn. And when I say stubborn, I mean it in the sense of once I get an idea in my head of some particular place to go or some particular adventure to have, I am basically as unstoppable as a freight train traveling at a high speed. Thanks, Dad for this quality. So after a fair amount of talking to my parents and convincing them of why I absolutely had to hike Kilimanjaro beyond a shadow of a doubt in my mind, they reluctantly agreed. Well mostly my mom agreed. My dad still had his fair share of qualms but while I usually am not a proponent of the phrase “It’s better to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission,” it definitely came to mind. Now I could officially check off get my parents approval from my To Do List. Check!

Mom, Dad, & Me in front of the mosaic dragon in Parc Güell

Mom & Dad in front of La Sagrada Familia Church (I lived a block away from it!)

Mom & Dad at the Mediterranean for the first time

Bucket Lists

By recording your dreams and goals on paper, you set in motion the process of becoming the person you most want to be. ~Mark Victor Hansen

Are you a “listing” type of person? You know the type. These are the people that have a list for everything: a list for groceries and things to buy, a list for school assignments, a list for extracurricular commitments, a list for meetings and appointments, a list for the Lilly items they adore, a list for all of their lists. Well, that’s me. So it is my obligation as a “listing” type of girl, to have the ultimate list: the bucket list. This bucket list isn’t very concrete. It grows every few days as I think of or hear new things that I would love to try. One of the most frequent themes on my bucket list is countries I absolutely must visit or activities I have to do while I’m in a certain country.

In keeping with my bucket list, several weeks before I left for my study abroad trip I decided to add something a bit crazy sounding to it. I decided that while I was in Tanzania, I absolutely could not leave without hiking Mount Kilimanjaro. I know. You think I’m crazy, right? Well…maybe a little bit. But wouldn’t it be crazier not to do it? After all, I just couldn’t imagine being halfway around the world at the doorstep of one of the world’s seven summits without even bothering to attempt it.  And after all, out of the seven summits, Mount Kilimanjaro is the one that is most trekked. So, I decided to go for it and promptly began another series of lists.

Mount Kilimanjaro in the distance